Cruise

Spring Break in a (Kinda) Foreign Country

Last time I wrote about our cruis on Royal Caribbean. But occasionally we got off the boat. Those stories are below:

Nassau Atlantis

Yeah, if you’re looking for a recap of beautiful downtown Nassau, y’aint gonna find it here. Wife stayed on the boat, having done Nassau a number of times and not being particularly enamored with it. Daughter and I hightailed it straight to the Atlantis resort for waterslides.

I don’t understand why every damn boat stops in Nassau, the Ensenada of the East. In Ensenada’s defense, though, there aren’t a lot of other options within close cruising distance of Los Angeles. Nassau doesn’t have that excuse.

But in the case of Nassau, there are other places close by, I mean, Freeport and Bimini are vacation destinations, right? Maybe the richies at Bimini don’t want the cruise riffraff near their fancy resort, but isn’t it richies at Atlantis, too? I couldn’t tell you for sure, because I’ve been there three times and still have never seen Sean Connery. Technically, this trip he has a better excuse for ditching my calls, being dead and all.

Anyway, it seemed a little lackluster to pair “Hey Daughter, it’s your first time in a foreign country” with “Let’s get the fuck out of Dodge ASAP.” Or maybe that’s fitting. We had to at least walk past the pharmacy that was all of one foot off the boat. What true international travel is about: cheap Adderall and Ozempic.

Last time I was in Nassau, we found a water taxi that took us across to Atlantis Island. This time I couldn’t find it, so after we walked a few blocks. we doubled back to the port where we’d seen a bunch of fast talking cabbie guys.  Yeah, father of the year here traipsing my daughter around a foreign city without any clue where we were going.

I figured there’d be a ton of haggling and that the price would double as soon as I was halfway there, but it seemed five dollars each direction was pretty standard. I got the price both directions and nobody haggled shit. That being said, they tried to pack as many random strangers into each taxi ride as possible.

It ended up not being the driver but the other customers who tried to haggle while we were already halfway there. I couldn’t quite tell what was being discussed because they were French and the driver was speaking pidgin English. I think the customers were asking either if the driver took Euros or if he would take credit card or Apple Pay or whatever. I think they were asking Euros first, and either he said no or they realized they didn’t actually have any cash, European or not. 

I get it. We’re living in a cashless society. But come on, dude, you really think some random cabbie in Nassau’s gonna have a QR code? Okay, maybe the cabbie does for tip purposes, but you can’t expect the company to be on board. I almost never have cash, but I got some before the cruise for this very purpose. Not only did I not expect every business in Nassau to be up on their cashless options, but I also didn’t really want to give them access to my credit card info.

As we were going over the bridge from downtown to Atlantis Island, Euro Dude turns around and asks if I have cash. Uh, yeah dude, but not for you. I honestly couldn’t figure out if he was asking me in the hopes I’d agree with him that nobody carries cash or if he was hoping I’d cover his ride. Fortunately the cabbie dropped us off before driving the Frenchies off to their destination, where they could negotiate further. 

When I gave the cabbie a $20 bill, I assumed he’d play the “I don’t have any American money for change,” but dude busted two fives straight out of his fanny pack.  Daughter asked why I tipped him because “he drove really bad.” I told her I gave him the tip because a) he was honest about having change, and b) if he didn’t drive fifty mph in between bumper to bumper traffic and crossing five lanes of traffic to make a left turn, we’d still be idling at the port. 

If she thought driving in Bahamas was bad, wait’ll she visits a true third-world country like Italy.

On the way back, we had a “nicer” taxi driver who took twenty minutes to drive the same stretch of land that the “bad” driver covered in five. But Daughter’s right, he was super nice. When the taxi was full up, he said one of us would have to ride in front. I volunteered and walked up to what in America would be the passenger seat. Of course, in Nassau, it’s the driver’s seat. He laughed and asked if I wanted to drive. In reality, he was probably just rolling his eyes and thinking, “Every fucking time.”

The main purpose of going to Atlantis, really the initial selling point of this cruise to Daughter in the first place, was their world-famous water slides. Last summer, while at Wild Rivers in Southern California, someone told Daughter about Leap of Faith and Daughter became singularly focused on making it there at some point in her life, preferably soon. 

The Leap of Faith, if you haven’t heard of it, is one of those vertical drop water slides. I always call them “Dropout” rides because the first one I ever encountered was named that, but also because it’s an accurate description. It isn’t one of those new trapdoor rides, which technically drop you faster, but it’s where you lie down and push yourself over the edge into a more-or-less vertical drop.

The real selling point of Leap of Faith, though, is that it ends by going through a shark tank. Raging Waters ain’t got nothing that includes aquatic carnivores. Stupid American regulations!

Fortunately, there was another slide that went through the shark tank, so Daughter didn’t have to start with a vertical drop. 

Unfortunately, the sharks weren’t really worth the hour in line.

You’re in a tube, and that tube isn’t exactly pristine. Very smoky, as you can imagine, and the sharks aren’t always in the best viewing spot. The only thing we could see clearly was a scuba diver scrubbing the tube like an underwater window washer. Although it must be a union job, because he didn’t seem to be keeping them very clean.

One of the things I liked the most about this waterpark was that a fair number of the innertube slides (the ones not around the shark tank) end in the lazy river. More waterpark should do this, even if it makes the innertubes scarce as hell. We stupidly let our first ones go, then spent a half-hour trying to fish out other ones. Once we had those, we made sure we rode every damn innertube ride, a couple twice, before we were willing to release them into the wild. 

Although calling that thing a lazy river is a disservice. It had multiple batches of rapids, some of which were long and legit. It was a blast and we ended up going around the entire length multiple times. Near the end of the day, I made Daughter decide between going on the one slide we hadn’t been on yet or going around the rapids one more time and she opted for the latter. Atlantis Aquaventure: Come for the sharks, stay for the not-so-lazy river!

Speaking of Leap of Faith, she worked her way up and finally did it. For most of the day, it seemed like she was going to chicken out. Hell, I wanted to chicken out. I’ve been riding those damn rides since I was ten and every damn time, I sit myself down and look over the edge into the nothingness of open-air and think, “What the fuck am I doing?!?” They aren’t even fun, really, because by the time you’re able to enjoy it, the ride is over.

This time, I didn’t even have the option of chickening out, because Daughter went first. Sure, I could’ve walked back down the long way, but considering how she went down, I thought I had to get there quickly to make sure she was, you know, still alive.

Let me back up. She wasn’t the first child set to go down the slide. A couple groups in front of us was a girl around her own age who had that Nietzsche “staring into the abyss” moment and, acting like a normal human being who enjoys being alive, freaked the fuck out. Her father pulled her off to the side and let some people go in front of them. People are very accommodating at that point because a) she’s young, and b) we’re all going through it, too, we’ve just learned to swallow our existential dread.

Daughter and I tried to talk them in to doing the Challenger, which was on the same platform as Leap of Faith and was the ride we’d just finished to “work up to” this one.  If Leap of Faith drops at a 70-75 degree angle (90-degrees being straight down), Challenger was maybe at a 60-percent with a “speed bump” on the way down so you can at least see the rest of the slide beneath you. 

But this other girl didn’t listen and, when we were next, she was ready to try again. We let them in and she freaked out again. 

We’re up.

Except now this other father wants his son to try it. “Do you mind?” he asks. “They weren’t going to let him ride it, but now they’re going to.”

Okay, fine. Let me just wallow in my anxiety for another minute.

This new kid is small. Like, if I had to guess, I’d say he was five, maybe six. The reason they “weren’t going to let him ride” was because he was barely touching that 48-inch height limit. The father had brought the kid over from the Challenger ride and said the the woman on that ride said he was big enough. 

So the kid sits down and immediately backs away. If the ten-year-old girl was exhibiting fear at, say, an eight on a scale of ten, this kid was exponential. It wasn’t the typical “part of me wants to, part of me doesn’t.” More like a “Nope! The world ends a foot in front of me! Why does Dad want me to go over a cliff?”

This father, meanwhile, isn’t trying to understand or work through his kid’s terror. He then mentions (I don’t remember if this was to his kid or to us) that this was his only chance. They weren’t letting him on any other rides today. This operator was the first one allowing it.

Cue giant record-scratching sound.

Wait a second, dude, this kid hasn’t gone on ANY water slides before? You think Leap of Faith is a great starter ride? I mean, tI’m usually not on the Father of the Year nominee list, but holy hells, man! This is generational trauma type shit.

This also begs the question of why they bother having a minimum height. I can’t imagine what 49-inch tall kid is raring to go on this ride. Daughter is pretty gung-ho when it comes to rides. She did Hulk Coaster and Guardians of the Galaxy Cosmic Rewind a couple days earlier, and not a single ride at Magic Mountain put a dent in her enthusiasm. Yet she needed to work her way up to Leap of Faith, and if she hadn’t been telling herself that this was the ride she was most interested in for six months, she probably would’ve passed. And she’s 56 inches!

Anyway, by the time the freakout girl and Father of the Year had both gone up to the ride and pulled back, everyone in line was kinda getting restless. When the ride operator, exasperated, said, “Okay, are you ready?”, it came in a desperation to please get things moving again. Maybe that was good for Daughter, who didn’t have time to think about it. She just didn’t want to be the third kid in a row to go up and freak out. The green light’s been on for a couple minutes now.

So she goes up, plops herself down and, with nary a thought, pushes herself forward. 

Unfortunately, she was sitting upright. Without all the tumult, she’d forgotten what we’d talked about in the line, that this ain’t a sitting up ride, cause that gravity thing can be a bitch when your center of gravity is pushing forward.  If anything, she was leaning her chest forward, something that’s going to help with momentum on other rides, but will only send you ass over teakettle for a ninety-foot tumble on this one.

“Lie down!” I yelled. The others around me in line helped out by shouting or variations on “Lie down! Lean back! Oh shit!” as Daughter disappeared over the precipice. 

Then came purgatory. I kept waiting for the red light to turn green, which I assumed would mean she’d made it to the bottom of the slide in one piece. Although I suppose it could also mean she’d flown completely off the slide, maybe into the shark tank, thus making the slide clear. Come to think of it, there was only one red light and one green light. Slide is clear, slide is not. What’s the “Oh, shit” light? 

On the plus side, the employee didn’t seem overly concerned. Then again, he hadn’t seemed concerned when a 47.5″ kid with no experience was damn near being put into a Niagara Falls barrel by his father.

The good news is that, like her, I didn’t really have the time or option to freak out about the ride or the sudden realization that I was in my twenties and fifty or more pounds lighter the last time I did one of these things. As soon as that green light went on, I was out the chute.

She was fine. She said she heard us shouting and remembered to lay down right as she was going over. I then asked her how it was and she had the more-or-less universal reaction. Fun. Glad she did it. No desire to do it again. 

My only real complaint about the Atlantis Aquaventure was that three of their slides (out of maybe nine or ten total) were closed. It was Spring Break and there were six ships in port that day, to say nothing of the hotel itself. Schedule your maintenance for January, peeps.

Private Island

Not much to say about CocoCay, Royal Caribbean’s private island. They’re all more or less the same. In fact, the Carnival private island was visible maybe a mile away. We totally coulda gone to war with them.

It was overcast, which was nice because I hadn’t done a thorough job sunscreening at Atlantis the day before. 

We opted for the zipline instead of the water slides as our “shore excursion.” Aan odd misnomer, since they’re ten feet from the pier. Shore, sure. Excursion?

My thinking when we booked this in advance (along with that damn coffee card) was that we would have just done water slides in Nassau the day before, and once Daughter saw others ziplining literally over the lagoon, we’d be marching right over and not getting the 10% or 15% discount. Plus the waterslides would no doubt pale in comparison to Atlantis.

Want to know what paled in comparison to its brethren? The zipline. Sure, the length of it was cool, but it caters to first timers. Most ziplines give you a bit of control while zipping. In Maui, you can do spins and flips and lay straight on your back. First time I ever zipped was in Fiji, where you have to control your own speed by pulling down on the line behind you.

The one at CocoCay was the opposite end of the spectrum. They had us in a harness that was damn near a chair. You couldn’t lean forward, you could barely lean back to slow down. At one point the wind was blowing me sideways and I spent the whole length trying to twirl myself back forward to no avail. You couldn’t even control when you started. They strapped you in and hung you in midair until they unclasped you from behind. Then at the bottom, you again hovered in midair until they came over with a ladder to get you down. Daughter and I were going at the same time, so I always had to wait till they finished with her before they brought the ladder over to me.

The waterslides, meanwhile, looked legit. Although for the price we’d have to do nothing but ride the slides all day. No breaking for lunch! 

Maybe next time we’ll skip the zipline and do the slides. Then I can do the 007 excursion in Nassau. It better feature Sean Connery’s mummified corpse!

Oh, and maybe we’ll snorkel. I didn’t realize they had it, so I didn’t prebook it. They didn’t have any spots available by the time we found them. Didn’t look like there were many fish to see, though.

Kennedy Space Center

Finally, we booked Cape Canaveral with an airport transfer afterward. Incredibly useful to not have to book another shuttle for ourselves. What was less useful was needing to book a flight after 5:00 pm. We booked a 7:00 pm flight that didn’t get back into California until after 3:00 am Eastern Time after waking up at 6:00 am. Oh, and they dropped us off around 2:00. Nothing’s more fun than spending five hours in an airport. Did you know they won’t let you check bags until the three-hour mark?

But the Kennedy Space Center was friggin’ cool. You start by taking a bus out to where the Apollo missions launched from. There are some videos of the Apollo I crash and some of its repercussions. Then they take you through some of the trials and tribulations to get from exploding on the launch pad to orbiting the moon. Then you go into a mission control room that they said was authentic, but I think was a replica, where you witness all the various lights and commands as it counts down from three minutes to liftoff. The room shakes to simulate if the rocket was actually taking off that close to us.

I made sure to inform Daughter that if you added up the computing power of every single console in that room, it wouldn’t come close to her phone. Crazy that we got to the moon with less technology than Flappy Bird.

We then returned to the main campus, where they had a space shuttle exhibit. As a 1980s kid, that’s the one I was more looking forward to. It was fine, but not as cool as the Apollo stuff. They had one of the space shuttles, Atlantis, on display and some various panels and “astronaut trainings,” but it was clear they treated as more of a “and then there was this.” Apollo I got a full video treatment. Challenger and Columbia got a little corner. 

The third exhibit was even more lackluster. Its focus was current and future space flights. I thought maybe there’d be stuff about manned flights to Mars, which is allegedly something they’re working toward, but instead it was a mishmash of commercial endeavors with sci fi (someday we’ll live in Cloud City). Not surprising considering NASA has given up on going to space and is also disdainful of others doing it. 

Speaking of NASA, when the shuttle driver asked if any of us knew what it stood for, I had to bite my tongue. 

As any good 1980s kid can tell you, it’s “Need Another Seven Astronauts.”

Sorry, I’ll see myself out now.

Spring Break on a Boat

Welcome back to the Spring Break recap. Last time I wrote about our pitstops at a couple of obscure Orlando locales.

But Disney and Universal were only addendums to the true purpose of our cross-country jaunt. Why drive all the way across Northern Florida for entertainment when you can just get on a boat and have said entertainment all around you? 

Of course, for this comparison to work, the ship would have to be smaller than Disney World, which they aren’t anymore. Or Florida, for that matter. But the theory is still sound. 

At least I’m less likely to lose my rental car while on a boat. 

Wife and I have cruised a number of times, both separate and together. We love them. I know not everybody feels that way. Last time we cruised, it was with a couple trying their first cruise and they’ve had absolutely no inkling of ever returning. 

So we figured nine was a good age to determine if Daughter was going to follow in our footsteps, or if we needed to put her up for adoption. I know the perfect land-locked couple! 

Wife wanted to start with an Alaska cruise, but they don’t run in springtime. They also tend to be on the longer side on the off-chance Daughter decided cruises weren’t for her – a more likely conclusion when it’s thirty degrees and sleeting on the Lido Deck. 

Meanwhile, I looked at a Carnival cruise to Key West and Cozumel, because I’ve never been to Key West and Daughter’s growing into a mini-parrothead. Three problems with that option: Carnival. Spring Break. Key West.

“Daddy, what’s a stripper pole?”

We finally opted for a quick four-dayer on Royal Caribbean to Nassau (the East Cost Ensenada) and the private island that pretty much every cruise line has in the Caribbean that simply is not available on my side of the country. 

We chose Royal Caribbean because it’s a good middle ground between Carnival and the fancier lines. While I don’t remember which cruise lines my family took me on in my youth, as an adult, I’ve always took Carnival. They’re cheap and boozy meat markets, which was precisely what I wanted in my twenties. 

But the last time I rode on Carnival (that Ensenada junket with the noobs), it felt lackluster. I’m sure part off that is my age, but I also believe that Carnival has slipped. Or the clientele has. It’s gone from a “nudge-nudge, wink-wink” booze cruise to a full-fledged “Ain’t nobody on this boat for the ambiance.”

We looked at Disney Cruises for, oh, about five seconds. I know there’s a Marvel Day at Sea, but for that price, it better include a hand job from Chris Hemsworth.  

Princess and Norwegian are more expensive than Royal Caribbean, but have fewer sailing options. So Royal Caribbean is still mass market like Carnival, but just costly enough to get rid of the riff-raff. In the end, it ended up being about the speed we were looking for. Somewhere between dive bar and Ritz. 

Except maybe not on Spring Break next time. 

Sorry, getting ahead of myself.  Let’s start with: 

The Biggest Change

Even though I’ve been on cruises as an adult, this was the cruise where I noticed the most pronounced changes from Ye Olde Cruisin’ days of the 1980s. Maybe it’s because I couldn’t chalk things up to Carnival anymore or maybe it’s because, with a child along, I was not just sipping pina coladas by the pool for the entirety of the cruise. 

But the biggest change I noticed was that most people aren’t just sipping pina coladas by the pool anymore. 

On cruises of yesteryear, EVERYTHING happened on the Lido Deck. Nothing worth doing was anywhere south of the 8th or 9th floor. Everything below that was rooms and a couple gangplanks.

I remember boarding my first cruise with my wife. There was a cute little entry way with a small bar along with maybe the shore excursion deck and a few other general information spots. They had a library with some board games and sudoku puzzles, and I was convinced we’d spend copious amounts of time down here, reading and whatnot with maybe a snifter of brandy. 

The next time I saw said library was when we were getting off the boat five days later. 

The entryway to our current cruise was fucking ginormous. It was three stories tall and stretched all the way from the forward elevators to the aft. Multiple bars and eateries opened out onto a cobblestone-painted floor. And that pizzeria pushed out free slices at a pace I wouldn’t imagine possible. Seriously, there were always people in line, and yet that line never took longer than a handful of minutes.

As we walkred around on emarcation day, I was reminded of that library I never saw again. These fountains and the fancy car were totally rad, but ultimately a waste since we’d likely never come back here. Maybe, just maybe, I could remind myself to check out the Schooner Bar once before we disembark.

But cruising’s changed. Instead of pushing us up toward the pools, most of the activities pushed us back down to this promenade. These were the bars that hosted trivia, that faux-cobblestone turned into the nightly dance club. Hell, even the karaoke bar was on deck five.

There were still plenty of things to do up on the Lido Deck (although I don’t think they call it the Lido Deck anymore). Mini golf and a zip line, the buffet restaurant, and abviously the pools. Pools, plural, because there isn’t really a main pool.  This boat had maybe three of four “primary” pools, none of which were bigger than, say, a 20’x20′ square. If there were more than ten people in a pool, it was crowded, and even if it was empty, nobody’s swimming laps.

But unless you were heading up there for the purposes of the mini golf or the zip line or, increasingly unlikely, the pools, there wasn’t really much of a draw to the upper parts of the ship.

In addition to the Promenade, which was in the center of the ship, there was an open-air Boardwalk area at the rear. It was made to look like a Coney Island or Santa Cruz, complete with a hot dog stand, a carousel, and an arcade (although most of the games in this arcade were broken). This was also where the climbing wall was and, let me tell you, it was legit. It went up six floors, where it gave way to the zip line.

The most impressive addition to these “inside the ship” locations was a park, located on the 8th floor, precisely above (and creating the ceiling of) the Promenade. This park was… I mean, it was a fucking park. Like, plants and winding paths and benches and shit. One of the tables had a chess board, another had backgammon, although I never figured out where to get the pieces. And like the Boardwalk, this was open air. Even though there were another eight decks above it, it actually opened to the sky. In fact, the spot directly above the park is where the ginormous pool would’ve been on earlier ships.

This layout made for an odd ship design, in that most of the balconies were on the INSIDE of the ship. Historically, most of the rooms on a cruise were porthole rooms. Most of the interior rooms went to the crew, but there were still a handful available for those looking for cheaper prices. The balconies were only on a handful of floors. Primarily because they had to be outside the ship. I never understood the purpose, because it can get damn windy on the outside a ship going twenty knots. Not exactly the place to read a book and sip a mai tai. 

Most of these balconies, instead, faced inward, rising above the Boardwalk on deck six aft and the park on deck eight mid. There were still some outside of the ship, but I assume those weren’t as popular. I’d actually spend time on one of those internal balconies, and in fact I saw a few of them being used. Although I assume the ones above the boardwalk stayed loud after hours. There was a spectacular water show that ran most nights at 10:15 pm.

I assume the balconies above the park were quiet. The few times I checked it out after hours, or even during regular hours, it was filled with quiet, contented people.

If we were left to our own devices, I think both Wife and I would’ve spent the majority of our cruise in the park. It’s weird, because if you had asked me what I would like to see added to cruises, I don’t think that a park would’ve made my top twenty. Or even my top hundred because it wouldn’t have even entered my consciousness as something that was feasible or desirable. When somebody brought it up the first time, were they laughed out of the board room? Or did all the other people in the room suddenly start scratching their chin, pondering, which was my reaction when I saw the picture of a tree on the elevator.

Yet each time Wife or I had some free time (me, when she took Daughter to see Mamma Mia, her when I took Daughter to Nassau), we each spent our time reading not by the pool, but on a park bench. If only they could add a couple of chaise longues.

The Card and the App

Ships have been using the key to your room as your primary form of interaction since the beginning of time. Nowadays, they also have an app.

Of course, my dumb ass lost my room key the one time I was left alone. While Wife and Daughter were at Mamma Mia, I sidled into the Schooner Bar for some trivia and a drink, because they had this wonderful concoction called a rum old fashioned. I opined recently that I’m enjoying rum more than whiskey, but I wasn’t sure if it was the rum or the fact that too many whiskey drinks are just whiskey. Well, I discovered on this cruise that, nope, it’s the whiskey. Because the rum old fashioned only had rum with a splash of coconut simple syrup and bitters, and I loved it.  

But when I sat down, I couldn’t find my card. I freaked the fuck out. The waiter, not wantign to lose a tip, says “It’s fine, we can still charge your room.” But I was concerned less about paying for my drink than about how many other people’s drinks I was paying for right now. 

Kinda funny, our reactions. I’m freaking out that my identity is being stolen, while he’s rolling his eyes at something he’s probably seen happen a thousand times. Maybe I should’ve taken a hint from the guy who encounters it more often.

After checking my last two or three locations, I booked it down to customer service to get a replacement. The moment it was in my hand, before I could get out “Is the old card…” the employee assured me that activating this new card deactivates the old one. Again, guessing it’s everybody’s most pressing query.

I also noticed that they didn’t ask for my id when I got my replacement. In fact, I didn’t even have to verify my name. I gave them my room number, they asked “Are you Mr. Anthony?” Jeez, they really don’t give a shit who’s charging what to whose account!

Of course, then I remembered that we had pictures tied to our account. So chances are whoever picked up my card could only use it if they were some overweight middle-aged dude with a mostly graying goatee that he’s still trying to make look hip. 

So, only like forty percent of the cruisegoers. 

And fortunately, you can track all your purchases on the app, which I watched like a hawk for the next twelve hours. 

So yeah, the app. Most of the time, it worked great. There were some definite coverage issues, especially on the back of the ship. Wife set up down on the Boardwalk to film Daughter riding the zip line far above. I was supposed to text her (on the app) when Daughter was next in line, but when the time came, neither I nor she could get the Wifi working to send or receive said text.

We weren’t sure how it would work with only one of us purchasing the internet option, but it’s like on airplanes where you can connect to their wi-fi without getting the internet. So al three of us could access the daily agenda and make reservations and look at our photos. 

Even though the app was more convenient than the paper of yesteryears, I kind missed the daily agendas being slipped under your door in the middle of the night like from a tooth fairy.

My biggest quibble was that, until she’s thirteen, Daughter can’t have her own login for the app. We logged her into her phone as me, which was fine for everything except sending texts, because the text would come from me to me and I wouldn’t get pinged. Seems like getting messages to and from tweens would be a primary purpose of the texting feature. 

One of my biggest quibbles with the app was that, until she’s thirteen, Daughter can’t have her own login for the app, meaning she has to login as me. Feels like getting messages to and from a tween would be one of the primary purposes of the texting feature.

Not that she ever separated from the two of us. Which leads me to:

Child Activities

I remember running around the cruise ships of my youth like we owned the damn place. Me and a group three or four other tweens, who I had never met before and have never seen again, were inseparable from the moment we got on the ship. We even had our own favorite bartender (shocker, I know) who made us “virgin whiskeys,” which were coke with grenadine. We might’ve even opted to stay on the ship for one of the ports in order to hang out.

In contrast, the kids area on this ship was basically a day care center. Basically, you dropped your kids off an isolated spot with “fun” things to do. Some computers and picture books of sea animals… an art room, maybe?  

At least it was separated out by age. The art room and a theater were all ages, but the sequestration rooms (I’ll be nice and not call them prison cells) were designated under 2, pre-K, lower grades, etc. Daughter would’ve gone to the 9-11 room, which is where some of the computers were, but is it really a great idea to take her on a cruise in order to plunk her in front of a screen? Besides, what does one do on a computer that isn’t theirs? Play games that they can’t save progress on? Go on YouTube and continually run into whatever filters they’ve put up? As far as I could tell, there’d always be a crew member babysitting, but there didn’t appear to be any specific events planned.

Furthermore, there was a limit to how many kids could be in any room at a time, so the couple times we checked it out, the 9-11 room was full with a line about ten deep to get in. Daughter peeked at the front of the line, saw it was almost all boys and instead asked if all three of us could go to the art room.

One night, she ate at the buffet and was planning to go to the kids area while Wife and I ate. We gave her the option to check herself in or out, which is only allowed for nine and above (but, again, they can’t text us when they check themselves out). About twenty minutes later, she was back claiming not much was going on, so she just did some art by herself then left. I asked if she talked to anyone or went to the 9-11 room and she said no.

I don’t know how many kids she talked to over the four days, but it could be counted on one hand. Wife reminds me that when we were cruising as kids, the ships housed maybe one-third of the customers the current ones do, so we would regularly run into the same people over and over again. That’s how we made friends.

She may have a point, but I distinctly remember a “Coke-tail” party on the first night where you met some of the other kids. I also remember things planned around the ship, not in a centralized jail. Because then, like now, I’m not exactly a self-starter in social situations, but if you tell me when and where something fun is going to happen, I’ll be there.

One more slight funny: The ship doesn’t have a thirteenth floor. Seems a bit overzealous on the superstition front, unless one of this ship’s ports of call is Camp Crystal Lake, But whatever. 

The children’s area is on the 14th floor which, follow me here, is actually the thirteenth floor. Hey, I think I finally found the day care where all that Satanic worship was going on back when cruises had child activities.

The daily agenda did at least have some teenage activities for 12-17 year olds, so in a few years we might finally be able to pawn our kid off at something more social than an empty art room. And as a bonus, she’ll be able to text us when she’s done.

Pre-Booking

Back in the old days, it was much more difficult to pre-book things. It was still possible, but most experiences, both on the ship and at the various ports, were still available when you got on the ship. 

These days, you’ve damn near got to know your itinerary by t-minus three months. In February, I noticed there were some cupcake decorating classes. Sounds fun, but do you plan that for the day at sea? The first night? How long will it take us to get situated? By the time I discussed with Wife and Daughter, all the cupcake decorating was gone.

Similarly with Mamma Mia, which we booked for midday on the Day at Sea, opposite tons of other stuff. There was a very cool diving show that I didn’t know existed before I got on the boat. Most of them were opposite dinner, which is fine because inevitably there’s a night we hit the buffet instead of formal dining. But how am I supposed to know which night, especially without seeing the menus? 

I still got to see the water show by standing in a walk-up line for an hour. With fifteen minutes to go, they let us take the empty seats of people who had reserved but not shown up. Probably because they booked it back in November.

One of the pre-bookings we did splurge on was the coffee card. For $30, you get fifteen stamps on a card, each one good for a shot of espresso in a drink. So that’s seven double lattes. Bargain!

Except we forgot to follow up on it until our third day. While at the Starbucks on the Promenade for the third time, Wife asked if those coffee drinks were just being comped on her keycard. But no, turns out that it’s a separate card that we need to get at customer service. They can have our Kennedy Space Center tickets for the day we disembark waiting for us in our cabin on day one, but evidently we have to hunt down our free prepaid coffee.

Even worse, the Starbucks on board won’t take the card. It’s only usable at the Cafe. Which serves… Starbucks drinks. We ended up using only half of our stamps.

Meanwhile, the Hibachi restaurant was booked, the sushi making class was booked, the ice skating (yes, they have ice skating) was usually booked. The trivias and Name-That-Tunes were overflowing by a half-hour before their start time.

Maybe it was only like this because it was Spring Break. Maybe under normal conditions the ship isn’t at 110% capacity. But they keep making the ships bigger and bigger, while the theater stays the same size. 

Then again, given my luck with the coffee card and the zipline, had I bothered prebooking stuff on the ship, I probably would’ve picked the shitty option. Oh, you wanted to see the Broadway musical, Mamma Mia? No, this is just three hours of an overly dramatic Italian guy speaking with his hands.

Final Thoughts

I was going to delve into our shore excursions here, but considering the length of this post, I’ll post that one tomorrow. Instead, I’ll give you a couple miscellany.

Our waiter’s name was Boy. It was awkward:

Take my order, Boy!

Boy, could you pour me a coffee refill?

Boy! Rum! Now!

I’m just glad he was Indonesian, because if he was Dominican or Nigerian, I’m sure I would’ve been arrested when re-entering California for committing hate speech. 

His busser, which they call “assistant waiter,” was Jamaican. Thankfully, her name was Eleice. 

My final gripe goes not toward Royal Caribbean, but Elon Musk.

There was supposed to be a SpaceX launch at 5:00 pm the day we embarked. We were still close enough to shore to see the launch pad, so we hung out until 5:30, but saw nothing. Found out the next day that it was delayed until 8:00, when we were at dinner.

Another launch was scheduled at 1:00 the afternoon we returned. We had tickets for the Kennedy Space Center and would’ve been leaving for the airport right around 1:00. This launch was postponed till the following day.

What the fuck, people? 

Boy, get me my space launch! Boy!

…on a Spring Break Afternoon

Last week I started my “What I did on Spring Break” de-brief by recounting a couple of the characters I met on my Booze Cruise to Mexico (Is that a Jimmy Buffett song?). Head back there if you want to read about the tour guide in Ensenada or the Piano Bar singer. They were each entertaining in their own regard.

But I held back on describing the biggest character of the trip. Because the Mexican diplomat and the singing copyright lawyer paled in comparison to a certain bus driver on the island of Catalina.

To say this guy was a cross between Richard Pryor and the Cryptkeeper would be insulting. Not sure to whom. My money’s on the Cryptkeeper.

The bus driver looked to be in his late fifties, but he easily could’ve been thirty-three with a steady dose of cocaine. His hair was ratty and continuously above/behind his head, as if he was being electrocuted in a windstorm. Or discussing gigawatts with Marty McFly.

I think maybe he put some Jheri Curl in his hair in 1999 and hasn’t washed it out since.

My first impression of the bus driver was not the first impression he was aiming for. I watched out the bus window as he interacted with the cruise personnel who were informing him he would have to wait for a few more people to get off the boat. He was pissed, and I can’t blame him. How hard is it to follow the “be at the tender by x time to be on shore by y time to give yourself z minutes leeway before the tourbus arrives.” And you know the cruise people were now telling the bus driver that, even though there would be people on his bus who couldn’t bother being on time, he still had to get us all back by <insert Sanskrit letter> time, or else they weren’t going to use his company any more. Who cares if he has to drive seventy miles per hour in a bus that tops out at forty on dirt roads designed for twenty?

So he was pissed, and his body language showed it. His jaw was set, lower lip out. His hands were on his hips when they weren’t running through his hair. He paced back and forth along the lawn, looking at the tender boats as if he could will them to go faster. I’m sure there was some “motherfucking kidding me”s escaping his mouth.

He looked like Pedro Martinez cooling himself off behind the mound after strike three was called a ball. Or Lionel Richie the day “Dancin’ on the Ceiling” dropped to number two. Like Richard Pryor after he set himself on fire. Or the two jive guys on “Airplane!” when they… hold up, they had afros, not Jheri Curl. Never mind.

After we finally had the missing cruisers in the bus, he gave us what he had intended to be his “first impression.” He closed the door, trapping (oops I mean “securing”) us inside, put on his microphone headset, and introduced himself as he pulled out into what counted as traffic on the only street in town.

“Welcome aboard,” he said in an obviously-affected, meek falsetto. I think he was aiming for Michael Jackson, but came across as Laverne from Police Academy instead. “I’d like to thank you all for putting your trust in me. Don’t worry. I’ve done this a… couple of times before. You’re… um… safe.”

I’ll give the guy credit. He kept the ruse on for a full minute or longer. I knew it was fake from the start, but still reached the point where I cast a skeptical, nervous side-glance at my wife before the bus driver broke character.

“Hahahaha,” he couldn’t contain himself any longer. “I love seeing all your reactions in the rear view mirror. You’re looking at each other like are we gonna have to listen to this for the next six hours? Like do I have to be polite?”

But here’s the thing. His voice hadn’t dropped that much. Sure, it’d grown in gravitas, but it’s not like his Michael Jackson had morphed all the way to James Earl Jones. He seemed to have settled somewhere in the Chris Tucker range. Or Dudley Moore. In fact, his voice and general disposition might have been part of his audition for a remake of Arthur. In this remake, though,  spends his time in the front of a bus instead of the back of a limousine.

And the bus was a character of its own. To call it a Muppet Movie or Partridge Family bus would make it about two decades too modern. This bus, a refurbished bus from the 1950s, would have called my 1985 school bus “luxurious.”  Think it harkened back to the Freedom Riders movement. And I don’t mean from that era. I mean actual bus might have physically been a burned out husk in 1961 that had been retrofitted.

And, really, what do you do with a bus that’s been fire-bombed by segregationists? Hey, I know! Sell it to a company that drives a bunch of drunk tourists around an island! I imagine the sales pitch went something like:

“Want a ride that’s as comfortable as a youth hostel cot?”

“No thanks, I live on an island with one town.”

“It corners like a tank!”

“I’m listening…”

“It gets two miles to the gallon.”

“Where do I sign? Is the bus here right now?”

So the guy drives us up the winding road into the mountains surrounding the town. I was on the right side of the bus, so I was only able to see how close he was coming to the mountain, not the cliff on the left side of the road.

But at one point, even from my vantage point, I could tell that was going straight when the road and, more importantly the mountain, were curving around to the right. This is it, I thought. It’s been a nice life but now it’s going to end in a fiery heap of asbestos-filled steel at the base of a mountain, the smoldering form of a still-cackling wraith spewing puns to my corpse.

Tomorrow, my undead corpse will be driving a new set of tourists off the cliff.

Wait, did they put asbestos in busses back then?

But he didn’t drive us off the cliff. At least not right away. What would be the fun in that? Killing your victims at the first chance is a strictly zombie move. Why do that when you can drag it out? When you can spend the whole time looking at the fear in their faces in the rear-view window?

Because it’s not like he was using said mirror to watch the road.

Instead, he brought our attention to the beautiful view of Avalon, the Pacific Ocean, and Southern California beyond as the bus hung precipitously from the cliff.  Or we were safely positioned in a turnout that I couldn’t see. But I assume the former.

“Where’s your Michael Jackson now, bitches?” I imagined Monsieur Keeper de Crypts cackling.

And then, after the pheromone level of his passengers dropped, our Dementor started up the bus again and drove us forward. I mean forward on the road, not forward off the cliff. Farther up the mountains and out of Avalon. There’s actually a barrier gate to get out of the “urban” area outside of the city. You have to be authorized to drive on the meager dirt paths that count for roads on the island. The golf carts that dominate the city are not allowed outside.

But a bus with no power steering driven by somebody whose head can spin around? What better definition of “authorized” can there be?

And for the rest of the trip, it was relatively painless. We were told we would visit a bald eagle sanctuary, and we did. Although there was nobody there, and it was pretty much just a netted enclosure that happened to have an eagle inside. I assume the driver’s buddy had just trapped an eagle and now it was a tourist trap. Although we didn’t pay to see it, so it’s a pretty shitty business plan for a tourist trap.

We drove to the east side of the island. At one point, he just randomly stopped the bus in the and told us we could get out to look at the view. It was indeed a beautiful view, if a bit marred by the bus sitting in the middle of the road, blocking any chance to escape. At least he hadn’t repeated his driving-off-the-road feat from earlier.

We ended up at the airport. I think that was the original purpose of the tour, but by this point in the day, I had forgotten. I half expected the driver to beeline it to the bar there before getting back behind the wheel with a foofy umbrella drink. But instead he told us that we were running low on time, so we had to take a couple pictures and run. Any food would have to be scarfed down. I guess all of that traffic we ran into had put us behind schedule. There were maybe two or three cars we encountered all day.

Or maybe he could have told one or two fewer puns. Or seventy-five fewer.

If you missed my earlier post, here are a few of his “highlights:”

  • “Love isn’t compromise, love is surrender. That’s why they call it a French Kiss.”
  • “The bumpy drive isn’t my fault. It isn’t the bus’s fault. It’s the asphalt.”
  • “Why don’t they play poker in the jungle? Too many cheetahs. If he says he’s not a cheetah, he’s probably a lion.”

On the way back to the ship, we were on to him, so he had to go a little farther for each zinger. “A crow has five wing feathers, called pinions. A raven only has four pinions. So the difference between a crow and a raven is all a matter of a pinion.”

His last zinger was quite electrifying. While stopped to watch the zip lines, he told us not to try to zip down the OTHER lines that were right there. Those were power lines.

“I zipped down those lines once. It was an electrifying experience. I used to be blond haired, blue eyed, and six feet tall.”

Nice one. And were you alive back then, too?

But what can I say? The guy was a professional. He safely drove a behemoth around on shaky infrastructure, kept us entertained and still had us back to the ship in time to depart. Quite the professional.

But even so, I still find myself questioning whether he was an employee of the company at all. Or if he was just some random dude who had escaped from One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest with the bus.

Cruisin’…

“Love isn’t compromise, love is surrender. That’s why they call it a French Kiss.”

“Thank you, thank you. I’ll be here all of the week.”

Actually, that zinger wasn’t mine. It, and many others, came from a tour guide on Catalina Island, driving his 1950s-style bus around hairpin turns on a dirt road like he’s Doctor Teeth in The Muppet Movie.

Here are a few others.

“The bumpy drive isn’t my fault. It isn’t the bus’s fault. It’s the asphalt.”

“Why don’t they play poker in the jungle? Too many cheetahs. If he says he’s not a cheetah, he’s probably a lion.”

“A crow has five wing feathers, called pinions. A raven only has four pinions. So the difference between a crow and a raven is all a matter of a pinion.”

Whoo!  I’ll give you a second to catch your breath.

After a year of weddings and campings and vasectomies (oh, my!), I decided to spend my Spring Break with Ye Olde Booze Cruise. You know the type. Less-than-exotic destinations amongst the not-quite-splendor of a floating quasi-resort amongst nearly-tangential American territorial waters. On the East coast, there are a few different destinations for these short benders. But on the left coast, there is only one such Inebriation Itinerary: Ensenada.

Ensenada: the Poor Man’s Cabo! Ensenada: Fewer Donkey Shows than Tijuana!

(Ensenada people, I’m available for advertising and am waiting by the phone for your call.)

I was far from the only teacher on board. I know the stereotype is that Spring Break is full of  college students, but it turns out educators have the same time off as those college students. We also have the benefit of (a little) more money in our pockets, and twelve-dollar pina coladas might be the great equalizer. On this particular Booze Cruise, I couldn’t swing a passed-out frat boy without hitting a teacher, counselor, or principal.

And, my goodness, teachers are annoying.

But instead of devolving into my distaste for most others in my profession, I would instead like to highlight three people I actually enjoyed on the trip. All three were in some sort of official capacity. Because I don’t go out of my way to talk to too many other teachers.

In Ensenada, we decided to avoid “La Bufadora,” aka The Blowhole, aka a place where the ocean waves break against a rock. Most of the people in my group had done this Booze Cruise before, and pretty much every first timer gets roped into La Bufadora. You pay $70 to sit on a bus for an hour, then be amazed by waves for about 15 minutes, then spend two hours as a captive audience with a bunch of booths selling shitty wares before the bus takes you back to the ship, loaded down with ten-cent sunglasses, 50-cent ponchos, and a year-supply of Chiclets.

Ninety percent of Ensenda shore excursions go to the blowhole. It’s “Bufadora plus downtown shopping” or “Downtown shopping plus Bufadora” (Yay, variety!). You can also do “Bufadora plus winery” or “Bufadora with kayaking” or “donkey show with a blowhole.”  Although I don’t think the last one includes La Bufadora.

“Hey, a jeep excursion. This is different.” I remember reading to my wife as we shopped for excursions. “Let’s see, it says ‘Ride in jeeps along the beautiful coast to La Bufa…’ oh, for fuck’s sake!”

We wanted to try something different, and fortunately found a cheese cellar tour. Instead of going south along the coast, it actually (Gasp!) went inland, up into the hills to a dairy farm. We sampled cheeses at various stages of aging, which was very interesting, tasted some of the same wine we would have tasted on the winery tour, and had an excellent lunch featuring, naturally, quesadillas.

Our tour guide was new, because the tour was new. What was even more impressive was the fact that he hadn’t known any English prior to being hired. For speaking the language less than a year, he was impressive. Hell, I had six of German between high school and college and I still can’t even understand the lyrics of 99 Luftballons.

The tour guide said he had grown up thinking Americans are uptight. Not sure how, given he lived in a city’s whose main economy is drunk Americans at Papas y Beers. But regardless, he said he had always heard we were uptight and had learned over the past year, as he had met more of inebriated Yanks, that Americans aren’t always uptight. We don’t all build border fences. Some of us do body shots.

He started to get past his preconceptions when he started to learn English. He felt that a lot of the differences, the misunderstandings, between our two nations might come down to just that – misunderstanding. Literally, we can’t understand each other. If the average American and the average Mexican were better able to communicate with each other, both countries might be better off.  I nodded along, knowing that this guy was right, I should be more conversant in Spanish.

I resolve to get Rosetta Stone when I get home.

Then somebody asked him if it was always this hot in Ensenada.  He responded that the temperature was usually around 25.

What? You’ve learned English, met a bunch of Americans, and don’t know the proper way to tell temperature is Fahrenheit? I mean, what point is there in learning each other’s language if you’re going to use that heathen Celsius? You almost had me, dude. A minute ago, I was marveling at the potential future between our glorious civilizations as we strode toward the future together. Now I’m signing up to build the wall. And the dimensions of Trump’s “door” better be measured in goddamned feet and inches!

The second person who caught my attention worked in the piano bar on the ship. Actually, I shouldn’t say he worked in the piano bar, he was the piano bar. Some of those fancy-schmancy boats have dueling pianos, but when the entire cruise costs less than a week of daycare, you take what you get.

He did the usual fare of Billy Joel and Elton John with a smattering of Jimmy Buffett, what with us being on a boat and all. Fewer sing-alongs than a usual piano bar, but again, you probably need a second musician or, I don’t know, a cocktail server to work the crowd into sing-along mode. And when the poor guy needed to rest his vocal chords or take a leak, the bar emptied out and he had to start from scratch.

At one point he busted out an original song. In a piano bar? When I go to Denny’s, I expect the waitress to bring me my Grand Slam Breakfast, not recite her Hamlet soliloquy for next week’s audition. And, Mr. Piano Man, in a piano bar, I expect you to perform “Piano Man.”

The kicker is that in this original song, which he swore he had recorded the day before getting on the boat, he wanted us to sing along. Except that we weren’t privy to the iPhone he had taken into Sam Goody to record on. Nor the radio station, K-RAZY, broadcasting it in his head.

But he assured us we could sing along. He taught us a bunch of “la-la-la” notes and told us to sing when he played those notes on the piano. This meant we were constantly late, but we eventually figured it out, because half the song was nothing but “la-la-la.”

I guess Elton John doesn’t write any lyrics, either.

I’m not being harsh on the guy, he was actually pretty nice. After one of his breaks emptied the room, he chatted with us between songs. Jokes about the Sam Smith/Tom Petty lawsuit led to a general discussion about the legalities of the music profession. Turns out you can’t copyright a chord progression, hence songs like “La Bamba” and “Twist and Shout” being indistinguishable on rhythm guitar. Note progressions can be protected, but they are notoriously hard to prove. How many notes in a row constitutes copying?

Piano Man mentioned one of the few successful lawsuits, prior to Sam Smith, was between Huey Lewis and Ray Parker, Jr. At this point, he played the bass line from “I Want a New Drug,” and although I had never noticed it before, sure enough, when he got to the end, I wanted to shout, “Ghostbusters!”

But Huey Lewis’s song had been playing on the radio a lot when Ray Parker, Jr. wrote his song, so the copying was pretty obvious. It becomes a little more difficult for some random Italian dude to prove that Michael Jackson had ever even heard his song, much less copied it.

“For instance, my new song,” Piano Man segued. “Were you in here earlier when I played it?”

We assured him we had been, but it was no use, he started playing it again anyway.

“This melody, for instance?” he continued. “It just came to me one day. Can I swear I’ve never heard it before? No. I’m pretty sure I made it up, but it’s very catchy, so maybe I’m not the first person to string it together. It would be hard to prove.”

Uh huh, buddy. Just like my book about a haunted hotel in Colo… I mean, Wyoming, and its caretaker, um, Zack Borrance.

But the Mexican diplomat and the singing copyright lawyer paled in comparison to the star of the trip, someone who I will write about next time.

You’ll have to return next week. The Blog experts call that a teaser.